A soldering iron or hot needle will melt plastic but not bone,, This is usual quoted method. Heat a needle in a candle flame?? I would have guessed it's bone, but who knows until you try. Bone can be polished until it looks like plastic.How do you tell for sure on a very old guitar?
OldPotter wrote: ↑Mon Dec 11, 2017 10:49 amA soldering iron or hot needle will melt plastic but not bone,, This is usual quoted method. Heat a needle in a candle flame?? I would have guessed it's bone, but who knows until you try. Bone can be polished until it looks like plastic.How do you tell for sure on a very old guitar?
I have a feeling that I prefer bone but can't say its a huge change. I definitely prefer a proper set up in terms of action at nut and saddle
I've done a number of ebony nuts coupled with ebony saddles. Sounded perfectly good to my ears. I did them on Panormo copies. I can't say that I've ever done any direct A-B comparisons with bone though and IMO it's completely pointless and invalid trying to do the comparison between different guitars (one guitar with bone, the other with ebony) or with a time lapse of any more that an hour or so. You can say the same for plastic of course. If there is any difference between bone and ebony it isn't obvious to my ears so the direct A-B comparison would have to be done.amezcua wrote: ↑Tue Dec 12, 2017 12:45 amI changed a bone nut for ebony once because the bone nut had sharp V shaped grooves which kept scraping the nylon off the strings . I just happened to have some ebony in the house . Come to think of it most violins have ebony nuts and the bridge is maple. What would a guitar sound like with a strip of maple on the bridge and ebony on the nut .
The question about compensating the G at the nut from montana --Cut the new nut so it overhangs the fretboard and then gradually cut it back till the lower frets come in tune . Much easier to use a korg tuner or similar .Guessing the adjustment would be like tossing a coin . I replaced one plastic nut and when I took it off it was also Hollow ! How mad is that ? You would think a factory would have more knowledge and self respect . Saying you hear an improvement always gets the jibe that it`s sunjective and "How do you know?" That question would only make sense if we were all stone deaf .
There are different ways, but essentially the goal is getting the proper string length from nut to saddle for each string. Sometimes, the g is off by more than the amount of saddle thickness, so you can’t compensate it enough at the saddle end. I made the new nut about a mm closer on the g string (so that it sticks out over the fretboard), the rest of the strings intonated reasonably well so i left them in line. It’s not too noticeable unless you are looking for it.