I received the replacement for the original NCX2000R about a week ago. It took a while due to back and forth between manufacturer and dealer, the former on the west coast and the latter on the east coast. Long story short, I ended up sending the replacement back for a refund and I am done pursuing this particular guitar. In the process, I learned that this model is being discontinued and will soon no longer be available new, which is just as well, since it has issues.
Here are my findings:
1. As far as playability goes, the action is about as low as can be found on a classical. However, I still encountered the two types of fret buzz that i had with the original guitar, buzzing on the fretted note and the other type of buzzing on adjacent frets at the VI to IX positions especially on the D and A strings.
2. Again, the truss rod was of no use with regards to adjusting out the second type of buzz. The Yamaha tech I spoke to said that this guitar has a dual action trust rod which gives you two kinds of bow. As far as I can tell, the truss rod that was installed in both guitars was a single action type offering no forward relief adjustment.
3. The nut is a standard classical width at 52mm, but the clearance from the edge of the nut to both E strings is HUGE! In order to really make this a more playable guitar, I would have to get a new nut made for it. It's almost as if the design was intended for use as a crossover guitar, but why would you want to waste all that space at the edges? Why not just make the nut width 48mm, like most crossovers?
4. The saddle also is poorly designed. The top surface is flat and angled down towards the tie block. This allows the treble strings to float just enough to have a weird just noticeable pinging sound. The top of the saddle should be radiused to provide minimal contact area for maximum down pressure and a solid anchor. When I changed strings I also found that the saddle was lose enough to fall out when the guitar is turned upside down. Should be snug in the channel. So, again, i would have to get a new saddle made, which would mean more expense.
5. The frets are of the most wimpy variety I can imagine. They almost look like they are intended for a mandolin or something. Thin, not tall, and the profile does not have a proper radius, leading to the type of fret buzz where fretted notes do not anchor properly and thus vibrate on the fret creating a fuzzy sound, robbing sustain. This happens mainly in the lower positions on both D and A strings.
6. In answer to the projection question, this guitar is rather quiet and subdued acoustically, although subjectively I would say that the original guitar seemed to have a louder acoustic voice than it's replacement.
7. The one thing this guitar has going for it is that it sounds very good when amplified. I plugged it into my Fishman SA220 and it really shines there. The onboard tuner is also a nice feature and is very accurate when compared with a high quality Snark tuner. The volume control is great in that when you turn it to zero there is no output, nice for live situations. Noise level is very low and the two pickup controls are a nice feature as well for adjusting the presence of bass to treble strings.
In conclusion, this guitar seems more trouble than it's worth. Even with the admirable aspect of good sound when amplified, if I was really crazy about it, I'd spend almost an extra $500 on additional modifications that a $3000 guitar should have already come with - new nut, saddle, and frets...and even then, I'd still have a truss rod that is basically useless. Thankfully, I have the option of a refund from the dealer, otherwise I'd have ended up with another dust collector.