Alan,Alan Clark wrote:The epoxy glue that I am familiar with here in the UK is Araldite, slow setting. As an archer who makes his own wooden arrows I use it to glue on the metal points. It is reversible, with heat. If I break an arrow and want to re-use the point, I hold the point in a candle flame. After a few seconds the glue goes soft and the point can be pulled off with pliers.
Obviously you can't do this with a guitar bridge! But maybe you could use a cobbler's knife with a flexible blade, insert it under the bridge, and heat up the blade. How did you apply heat Chris?
Maybe the bridge repair was done with epoxy, and it softened a bit when heat was applied. Or maybe it was repaired with Gorilla Glue or some other brand of expanding PU foam adhesive. I also use this to glue on arrow points, and it breaks down when heated up.
Interesting that Romanillios used powdered resin glue for gluing bridges. When I was a professional lute maker I used it (Cascamite) to glue a lot of bridges on, and never had any problems with it. But that was a long time ago. They changed it, I believe, and it is now called Polymite. Not sure if it 's as good as it used to be.
"It'll pop right off!"chiral3 wrote:Shocked an old-timer didn't chime in and tell you to grow a set and hit it hard with a hammer.
Steve,Steve Ganz wrote:For the future. A more conservative approach (which you might have considered): Remove the bridge by planing it down to 1 mm or less, then heating and/or scraping. I wish I had done this on my first bridge removal.... It is tempting to try to remove and save parts such as bridges and fingerboards, but the substrate usually suffers.
Oh sorry I was referring to just one of the wings of the bridge... Minus carriage boltSteve Ganz wrote:30 g.
Excluding the carraige bolts I presume.
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