Francisco Manuel Diaz is a great maker.Marcus Dominelli wrote:It had a spruce top, with red cedar bracing.
The guitar was a monster. Really responsive and explosive. I think the key to using cedar, is you have to treat it like cedar, not spruce. His braces were bigger than typical spruce bracing you'd see on a "Granada School" flamenco. There was very little top distortion at all, mainly because the string height was only about 8mm off the deck, which is about right
I thought you could get away with using a water based glue, based on the surface areas, and more importantly, the increased thickness of your inner skin, which is why I asked.VuTran wrote:@Marcus Dominelli: I used Titebond original glue. I can’t figure out how to use hot hide glue to laminate the two skins together. Do you have any suggestions ?
The gluing surface is larger than Nomex. It'll be very hard for the top to be delaminated. When It happened, I know it’s my mistake .
Thanks so much, Frederich! Your advises is worth more than a thousand dollars.Frederich wrote:Nice work, Vu Tran. May I suggest you that to make the top 2mm thick, go down 1,4mm with the holes and the second skin about 0,5 - 0,6mm thick.
A good WRC top before lamination should be about 72g - 80g. Try to use polyurethane glue (Gorilla) instead of Titebond. Use a rubber roler and put glue only on the top, don’t put on the thin skin. This will eliminate any tendency of distortion when cured. If you have a CNC machine why don’y you try to build a vacuum table? I’ll be afraid to use tape. The photo is from a guitar that I work on right now.
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