Today the Bridge Doctor arrived . I was curious to see if the instructions were as confusing as some buyers said .
There was a paper slip in the package asking "Did you know we have a forum?" That is http://www.btnmusic.co.uk/community
Well the written and also internet instructions are confusing because the explanation diagrams label the large screw adjuster screw as the Tension Screw. But the written instructions mentions the Adjustment Screw. It`s the one that moves the spruce post too and fro .Basic stuff but liable to confuse .
The instructions for the classical guitars are mixed up with the guitars that use Pins to hold the strings. It keeps switching from one to the other .
Read all this next part after you have seen the internet site ( por favor ).
There is a small countersunk screw included .The narrow threaded part needs to be fitted first. When you countersink a screw hole the top of the screw will sit level with the surface.But they provide a decorative spot to cover the screw head. So you need a different shaped drill bit to sink the hole deeper at the same diameter so the decorative dot will fit .The internet diagram shows a Panhead screw with a head that is flat on top and underneath not a countersink shape. Laughably a picture of the drill needed is shown and it`s a nasty old rusty thing. Dear me .It needs a Panhead screw sunk below the surface for the decorative dot .
Fot the classical screwed in fitting they remember that most guitars have a brace at the centre and tell you to avoid drilling through the brace by shifting it sideways and filing a groove in the plastic post top. Very good. But they forget to mention the wooden block part that also contacts the guitar top . That piece of wood is twice as wide as the nylon post. So if you do not file that to avoid the brace it will not sit straight.It will be tilted sideways and also endways. (But ) If you don`t file the nylon post it will only tilt sideways and maybe bend the metal screw with the decorative dot.
Some pictures of the B D look as if the screw that fits through the top is not 100% vertical to the wooden block. I must have some German or Japanese genes as I had a close look at the shape of the block itself. I had to shift the holding screw to fit the narrower bridge and the hole is indeed not drilled vertically. So looking at the wooden section that also touches the top I noticed that "that " is not 90 degrees square across either and tilts in the opposite direction .The flat area of the wooden block that has three possible hole positions drilled is also slightly tilted but not as much as the top section . That was a Huge few mms out of whack .
Fortunately for me I have removed the braces already and originally there were only 4 so none were on the centre line . To recap the reason for complete removal of braces. I could feel some looseness in both inner braces but while shaving them away it was clear that the accidental pressure on the top area had disconnected one brace by 5 1/2 inches. So why would I trust the others to be intact? The other brace was disconnected by over 2 inches .It does not show up clearly by sensing a slight looseness at the end .
General reaction to the explanation sheet that comes with the Bridge Doctor is "disorganised and confusing ".
But still a very good idea that needs some close attention to the sequence of instructions .
When I fit this and find it works I will feel like Stan Laurel beng described as Oliver Hardy`s closest friend and severest critic . Don`t give up on it .