John higgon wrote:Good advice from Jim. Just to clarify, the distance from nut to fret 12 + 2mm is used to calculate the distance from the saddle to fret 12, in case you were wondering. Very unusual to have a bridge on a classical guitar that is moveable. You might want to get a luthier to glue it in place!
jim watts wrote:Concerning the movable bridge:
Measure from the nut to the 12th fret, add 2mm to that measurement. The results are the distance the bridge should be from the 12th fret to the middle of the saddle. Place it as accurately as you can. Some minor tweaking may still be necessary, but this should get you very close.
I'm guessing if you do that, the world will be good again.
petermc61 wrote:I find the concept of a movable bridge bizarre. Having to set it up each time you change strings, and if it is not quite right having to slacken the strings and apparently move it randomly by trial and error? Life is just too short for that.
jim watts wrote:Did you move to a higher tension string? That can cause intonation problems also.
jim watts wrote:Z, I'm not quite sure how to state this and I'm not trying to be offensive, but the open strings cannot be the problem. They are canonical to the set up. That is everything starts from the open string.
Another approach for you is to tune the open string and then adjust the bridge position until the fretted note at the 12th fret matches (an octave higher) the open string. If the fretted note is sharp move the bridge back and check again, re-tuning the open string each time. If it's flat, move the bridge closer to the nut.
Do this for the two E strings. If the other string are off after this exercise the shape of the saddle will need to be changed.
This is the exercise the builder went through in order to determine the original saddle location and saddle shape.
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