Thanks for bumping this thread. I noticed I missed a few questions from Craig:-
craig bumgarner wrote:Can I ask about the finish? When you say "off the rag" shellac, I can guess but can you expand on that a little? Just wipe on coats? Just a few? Many?
What does "no cut" mean?
I gather from the pictures you are not tinting. With light shellac coats, how would you stain or tint? Especially the top? In the genre I build, some tinting to replicate vintage guitars is desirable. I've been doing this by spraying tinted shellac early on in the FP process. Keeps it uniform, but it takes a number of FP sessions to bury the spray texture.
Also, why nitro on the neck? Durability?
Finishing an open grain timber like Aus. blackwood has its own issues. For example, if you sand it, the slurry fills the pores which means you have to clean them all out to keep the open pored finish. The trick, of course, is not to sand at all, but that means your shellac application has to be pretty flawless. Finishing "off the rag" means that there is no post-finishing cut (=sanding) and buff and you leave the finish as it is, straight after the last polishing session. How many "coats" you put on is up to you, but you don't actually need many to provide a thin contiguous finish if you don't sand any off. The more you put on, the more you tend to fill the grain and the more likely it is that you will need to flatten it, which defeats the object of this style of finish.
Regarding tinting - I try to avoid all that, so can't comment on the best way to do it. What you are doing sounds as good as anything. Tinting/colouring can be a lot of work. This one (another alternative back and side wood - Aus. Tiger Myrtle) took a bit of doing. No grain fill on the B&S again as tiger myrtle is pretty well poreless. This one is nitro all over.
Why nitro on the necks? I tend to grain fill the necks, usually an epoxy fill and use nitro for the extra durability. Necks are always bolt-on, so finishing them in different media is no big deal.
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