Keith wrote: ↑
Mon Jun 12, 2017 11:40 pm
Attila, when you say you removed all of the hardware I take it that means the tuners as well. If the tuners were removed I would imagine the strings were as well. Since the buzz remained we probably can eliminate the tuners, strings, frets, etc. It could be a crack in the neck, head or neck joint. A couple of months ago I bought a guitar which had a weird buzz to it which irritated the crap out of me. I did the obvious--check for loose strings, screws, frets, etc. The frets needed leveling which was done and the buzz became sporadic. I finally discovered the culprit--a crack in the head where the tuners fit in. Tuners were pulled and the head got a visit from Mr. Tite-Bond and his friend, clamps. Problem solved and frets were leveled. Start checking for pesky cracks inside and out.
One interesting side benefit of the events described above was I was put in a frame of mind to check out other guitars and found a really great one which I purchased. Your situation might be the catalyst for you to begin your search.
Thanks for the advice! I had thought of that possibility myself, too, and even wanted to remove the headstock overlay to examine the headstock, but I didn't. Somehow I had the feeling that the buzz was coming from inside the neck. Eventually, on a nice day I felt the irresistible urge to remove the fretboard. I did it with a heat gun. Underneath I found two channels routed into the wood along the neck. Two 20 cm long metal rods had been inserted in the channels in such a lousy way, that the wood separating them was all broken. Epoxy had been used to hold the metal rods in place, but it had come loose. Possibly it was its free movement, and the sideways movement of the metal rods, plus the resonance of the broken wood, which caused the nasty rattling upon every plucking of a string.
As a remedy, first I forced the metal rods out of the channels with a screwdriver. Then, with a router, I made a wider channel (1.5 cm wide) by enlarging and cleaning the existing channels, and removing the splintered ridge from between them. Then I cut a suitable length of hardwood and glued it it the new, wide channel with Titebond.
Glueing in the hardwood inlay is a bit tricky. To ensure a proper bond between the sides of the channel and the inlay one needs to serrate the sides of the inlay, so that the excess glue can find its way out, and so that there could be a slight gap between the surfaces to achieve a glue joint which is not starved. It is best done with a miniature triangle file. The serrations should be at right angles to the length of the channel.
When the glue had dried, I removed the clamps and with a scraper, I brought the top surface of the wood inlay roughly level with the top of the neck.
This is where I am now. In the days to come I'm going to put on a new ebony fingerboard with 20 frets, a rosewood headstock overlay, a rosewood-inlayed bone bridge overlay and an all-over shellac finish. I'll let you know about the results.
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