Truss rod at the end of its adjustment

Construction and repair of Classical Guitar and related instruments
Laudiesdad69
Posts: 1184
Joined: Tue Nov 29, 2016 1:16 pm

Truss rod at the end of its adjustment

Post by Laudiesdad69 » Wed Sep 27, 2017 6:51 pm

Hi, I just bought a cheap new guitar. It's a Lucero LC200S. It has a truss rod. I strung it up with Ramirez HT nylon strings. After the strings settled for a couple of days, I made the final adjustment of the rod.

The action is 3.6mm on the Low E side, and 3.2mm on the high E side. The relief of the neck is barely perceptible. I wound up maxing out the truss rod and then backed off a quarter of a turn. There are no uneven frets on it, and it is quite playable.

The question is this...is it okay to have the truss rod so close to the maximum adjustment?

MessyTendon
Posts: 1317
Joined: Fri Jun 19, 2015 1:33 am

Re: Truss rod at the end of its adjustment

Post by MessyTendon » Thu Sep 28, 2017 1:04 am

It should be just fine as long as you have 1/4 turn either way...Don't use truss rod to adjust action...use saddle and nut to adjust...Then dial in the truss.

3.6 and 3.2 that's not bad at all.

Laudiesdad69
Posts: 1184
Joined: Tue Nov 29, 2016 1:16 pm

Re: Truss rod at the end of its adjustment

Post by Laudiesdad69 » Thu Sep 28, 2017 3:00 am

As the saddle can only be adjusted once, I start with the neck relief. Then I know how much saddle to shave. Next string change, I will shave off a teeny tiny bit more. I am waiting on a Stew Mac saddle roller. Hopefully that will save my nails:)

MessyTendon
Posts: 1317
Joined: Fri Jun 19, 2015 1:33 am

Re: Truss rod at the end of its adjustment

Post by MessyTendon » Thu Sep 28, 2017 5:12 pm

Stumac sells lot's of superfluous tools. I like using Atoma diamond plates to shave saddles. Heck you can get a 1,000 grit Atoma diamond pad and cut it in pieces and have a nail file that will last a lifetime :)

Most people run the mistake of thinking a truss rod should keep the neck dead flat, don't do that. One way or the other, a slight relief is better most of the time.

You also have to factor in string tension for setting relief. But really don't get too technical. Just make small adjustments. Hopefully you have enough saddle showing for break angle and such.

Lot's of harmonic wackiness is usually factory nuts aren't cut so great for strings. But I wouldn't necessarily order an expensive stu mac tool when many cheaper DYI solutions exist.

Philosopherguy
Posts: 875
Joined: Fri Mar 29, 2013 12:40 am
Location: Niagara, Ontario, Canada

Re: Truss rod at the end of its adjustment

Post by Philosopherguy » Sun Oct 08, 2017 2:18 pm

MessyTendon wrote:
Thu Sep 28, 2017 5:12 pm

Lot's of harmonic wackiness is usually factory nuts aren't cut so great for strings. But I wouldn't necessarily order an expensive stu mac tool when many cheaper DYI solutions exist.
Why do something cheap and simple when I can order a tool and pay 100 times the price to do the same job?!?!?! You are just talking crazy here!

Martin
*************************************************************
2013 Ramirez 130 Anos - Spruce
2013 Ramirez 4NE - Cedar
1998 Dean Harrington - Spruce
1977 Kuniharu Nobe - Spruce
1971 Yamaha GC3 - Spruce

Laudiesdad69
Posts: 1184
Joined: Tue Nov 29, 2016 1:16 pm

Re: Truss rod at the end of its adjustment

Post by Laudiesdad69 » Tue Oct 10, 2017 2:29 am

Philosopherguy wrote:
Sun Oct 08, 2017 2:18 pm
MessyTendon wrote:
Thu Sep 28, 2017 5:12 pm

Lot's of harmonic wackiness is usually factory nuts aren't cut so great for strings. But I wouldn't necessarily order an expensive stu mac tool when many cheaper DYI solutions exist.
Why do something cheap and simple when I can order a tool and pay 100 times the price to do the same job?!?!?! You are just talking crazy here!

Martin
I want the Stew Mac saddle roller. 158 bucks on sale. I always screw up a nail with sanding saddles.

Laudiesdad69
Posts: 1184
Joined: Tue Nov 29, 2016 1:16 pm

Re: Truss rod at the end of its adjustment

Post by Laudiesdad69 » Tue Oct 10, 2017 3:01 am

Oh, I should add that I backed off the truss rod after the neck had a delayed reaction. Iloosened it a half a turn, and then a couple of days later, tightened it a bit. Less than a quarter of a turn. The strings have settled on and the neck has the proper relief it is now adjusted to where I can tighten it a bit if I have to or loosen it. The saddle os a good height. 3.6mm on the bassside twelfth and 3.2mm on the high E.i will work the top of the saddle and dial the trebles in a little more.

Pat Foster
Luthier
Posts: 40
Joined: Sat May 13, 2017 4:12 pm
Location: Spokane, WA

Re: Truss rod at the end of its adjustment

Post by Pat Foster » Tue Oct 10, 2017 3:47 am

I prefer to adjust relief first, then action. If I adjust the action, then the truss rod, the action could change.

Giving the neck a few days to settle down after adjusting the truss rod is good practice.

Return to “Luthiers”