Agreed with Michael that you need little in the way of stones. I use Japanese water stones and have a 1200 and two bits of a 6000 which I dropped and broke in two. When I need to regrind an edge, I use wet and dry silicon carbide paper. All my sharpening is done freehand.
All my planes are vintage excrpt for the ones I made. By vintage, I mean first three decades of the 20th century and 19th century. They all have their original blades, thick or thin, but well sharpened and bodies well tuned and all work very well. Nothing wrong with the thin blades as far as they are sharpened properly and the chip breaker fitted well. However, I really like the 19c thick, tapered, laminated blades.
In time to come, some of the blades will have to be retired and I will have to replace them withodern blades if there isn't a suitable replacement in the stash.
I made my first plane 26 years ago. In the mid-2000s, a machinist friend of mine started making blades for our own use, patterned after the 19c blades, thick and tapered. We tried both 01 and A2 steel and prefer the 01.
At a time, I had about forty planes of various types, but have now got over PAS and downsized to a saner 17, both restored vintage and ones I made.
All of them give me great joy to use. I appreciate the aesthetics and the ergonomics from the time when hand tools were used almost exclusively.