I think that cutting notches in the saddle to match your desired string spacing is a much more practical solution to the problem than fitting a new bridge or drilling new holes in your tieblock. I have cut notches in the saddles of my guitars many times to change string spacing, and the technique works perfectly. There is so much down-bearing pressure from the string over the top of the saddle that it takes only a very shallow notch -- more of a scratch than a gully, really -- to securely hold the string in its new position. Therefore, it's possible to use your existing saddle without altering the action if you cut the notch only on the aft edge of the saddle , where the string first passes over it as it leaves the tieblock, and leave the forward edge alone, preserving its current height. If there is already compensation cut into your current saddle, it also will be preserved by notching only the aft edge. I'm not a luthier, but I've done this procedure many times myself and had perfect results. Like you, I prefer 57mm spacing and play more comfortably after I've brought down spacings of 59mm or 60mm by using a notched saddle. Doing this does not change the guitar's sound as far as I could tell. As the strings will now slant slightly inward to make up for the lost 2mm, it's important to space the notches evenly so that the slanting is equal on each string and the visual balance is preserved.
If you try it, let us know how it works out.
Last edited by Intune on Tue Jan 19, 2010 2:35 pm, edited 2 times in total.
2010 Andres Marvi (cedar/Madagascar rosewood)
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