Thank you for your reply.
Yeah, I'm not expecting much. It's just the process, having a look at it and having a go at french polishing really. I bought this guitar because I could take down the beach and bang on it around a bonfire and not be worried about it. And if wood got scarce ...James Lister wrote:There's a limit to how much improvement you'll get with a laminated top guitar. The top will probably be too stiff, but you can't take much wood off without going through the top laminate (you'll have to be careful about this even if just re-finishing). I think you would really learn a bit more with a cheap solid wood guitar, but if that's what you've got - give it a go, but don't expect too much,
Actually for the money, it's ok.
The beauty, and perhaps the frustration for the beginner, is the many different ways to achieve the same thing. I guess for me it's "give something a go and see what happens".James Lister wrote:Not really possible to answer this one, as every luthier goes about this in different ways. Some measeure deflection of every strut and top plate they use, others just go by experience, feel and tap tones. Typical way to measure deflection is to accurately dimension a piece of the tonewood in question, clamp it to the bench at one end, then attach a known weight to the other end, and measure the amount of deflection.
Good thoughts. Thanks again James.James Lister wrote:Depends on the glue used. With a factory guitar, where you don't know what's been used to glue it on, I would tend to chisel, plane and scrape the old one off and make a new one. You could try applying heat and water, and working a pallette knife under the edge. With solid tops, there's a risk with this method of opening up the centre join in the top, but with a laminated top, that shouldn't be a problem. I suppose there may be a risk of de-laminating the top - I don't have the experience with laminates to know if this is likely.