rdkissinger wrote: ↑
Sat Nov 11, 2017 2:35 pm
I used a mirror and flashlight to look inside the sound hole at the back side of the top of the guitar, and it looks to me like the grain of the back side matches exactly the top grain. The edge around the sound hole appears solid (no glue line or change in color). I think it is a solid top. Thanks for the advice!
I found that the best way to verify the solid top is looking at the edge of the sound hole to see if the grains running down seamlessly. The posted photo is not clear, however that from the Mystery guitar post, as attached illustrates this point.
Having said that, I would not get too fixated with the "requirement" to have a solid top for you to get it, especially with respect to these Japanese classical guitars made in the 70s. At the end of the day, if the sound of the guitar that inspires you to play over and over again, then, it is the deciding factor!
I found that the single argument of laminated vs solid top as a must to buy not convincing, as other factors such as bracing, types of strings, construction would affect the sound volume and its tone, and most importantly, it's the very guitarist playing that would make the real difference
As someone suggested a price of $350-$400 for this, if you can find a new, or used guitar in this price range regardless of solid or laminated top, and if it sounds better (to your ears) than this Japanese guitar, then you know what to decide. That said, even if you can find another one that sounds comparable, the vintage guitar would retain its resale value simply due to its history and thus value.
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