Thank you for that very interesting explenation ! What I'm most curious is how can you tell from a picture that there is very little run-out ? You are right of course it is well quatered and straight. Does your observation have anything to do with light reflection ?Alan Carruth wrote: ↑Mon Jan 07, 2019 7:11 pmI would not bother to fill that little mark. From what I can see, it looks like a shot mark. A lot of the walnut we get in the US comes from Pennsylvania, where they have in the past, and maybe still, hunt deer with shotguns. A friend on mine told me that he used to load one barrel with a slug for deer, and the other with shot for geese. When the shot goes into a tree in makes a track through the sapwood to where the lead stops. The lead itself dissolves rather quickly in the acid sap, but you're left with the track of the shot, and some discoloration of the wood. When there's a lot of shot damage the wood can have a 'characteristic' figure, something between quilt and an irregular curl. It will also tend to be denser and harder than normal. I suspect that both are due to the lead. BTW, I only ever actually ran into one piece of metallic lead in walnut. I had just sharpened my power joiner, and run the first piece through. When I turned it over, there was the shiny metal. After a short exasperated discourse I shut the machine down. The cutters were fine.
It would be very tricky to patch that mark in with a piece of wood to match. The grain is pretty straight, and there does not seem to be much run out, so that makes it easier, but it's still not trivial. Wood is a natural material, and things like that are just part of the history of the tree.
Yeah I thought something. I think your recommendation as well as Alan's is correct. I will post progress as I move along.simonm wrote: ↑Sun Jan 06, 2019 8:55 pmThat will look great. Just regard the pin hole as a "feature". I assume it is more visible on the side you are not showing?
Edit ... oops something went wrong with my original post - I have fixed it. My point was just leave the pin hole alone. Wood is a natural material, some "features" are to be expected.
The wood used to make the walnut body on the previous page was flat sawn wood, basically my practice pieces for learning how to resaw. I do like the look of quartered wood better, but the flat sawn wood gave me little trouble for sides. The wood did tend to cup a little but not enough to bother the function of the sides.lucho wrote: ↑Mon Jan 07, 2019 9:03 pmHow troublesome is walnut back/sides when non-quartered?
I've read that walnut is pretty easy to work with and it's relatively stable in terms of tang/radial movement. But all the nice figured pieces I see are on flat or off-quarter pieces, while most of the quartered pieces are pretty bland looking. In the age-old builder dilemma of stability vs looks, where do you walnut weathered luthier veterans fall?