Which forms of bridges do you prefer?

Construction and repair of Classical Guitar and related instruments
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Patona
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Location: Düsseldorf/Germany

Which forms of bridges do you prefer?

Post by Patona » Thu Apr 11, 2019 1:02 pm

On my guitars I have different forms of bridges. One bridge is ground round on the top, the other has a slight phase with a flattened tip. Please tell me your experience, which form do you prefer and maybe why. I have the feeling that the e string on the round bridge sounds a bit unclean. I would like to try it with another bridge.
"Don’t try to calm the ocean. Learn to swim between the waves."

Boguslav Teryks Doubletop. spruce-cedar
Hanika 1A/PF, spruce
Ramirez 1a, 1972, cedar

oc chuck
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Re: Which forms of bridges do you prefer?

Post by oc chuck » Thu Apr 11, 2019 10:23 pm

Honest question,
are you talking about bridges or saddles?
To a small degree, saddles can be adjusted for several reasons.

Can you post some pics?

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Michael.N.
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Re: Which forms of bridges do you prefer?

Post by Michael.N. » Thu Apr 11, 2019 11:22 pm

Referring to the saddle.
Historicalguitars.

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Patona
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Re: Which forms of bridges do you prefer?

Post by Patona » Fri Apr 12, 2019 8:35 am

I think I had a translation problem. In German the parts are a bit different. I mean the bony saddle after the 12-hole bridge. At the moment I can`t make pictures because the instrument is on my luthier for a check-up. The question should be:
Which forms of saddle do you prefer?
"Don’t try to calm the ocean. Learn to swim between the waves."

Boguslav Teryks Doubletop. spruce-cedar
Hanika 1A/PF, spruce
Ramirez 1a, 1972, cedar

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petermc61
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Re: Which forms of bridges do you prefer?

Post by petermc61 » Fri Apr 12, 2019 9:24 am

I would have thought the first consideration is whether the ‘take off point’ for the string needs to be in the middle or the front of the saddle (or a mix) to get the correct intonation.

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Patona
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Re: Which forms of bridges do you prefer?

Post by Patona » Fri Apr 12, 2019 10:40 am

If you have a rounded saddle, the "take off point" is in the middle. If you have a saddle with phase, the "take of point" on the front. Your hint with intonation is very good, but my question is, where do I have the cleaner sound transmission.
"Don’t try to calm the ocean. Learn to swim between the waves."

Boguslav Teryks Doubletop. spruce-cedar
Hanika 1A/PF, spruce
Ramirez 1a, 1972, cedar

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petermc61
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Location: Sydney, Australia

Re: Which forms of bridges do you prefer?

Post by petermc61 » Fri Apr 12, 2019 10:54 am

Patona wrote:
Fri Apr 12, 2019 10:40 am
If you have a rounded saddle, the "take off point" is in the middle. If you have a saddle with phase, the "take of point" on the front. Your hint with intonation is very good, but my question is, where do I have the cleaner sound transmission.
I doubt it matters where the high point of the saddle is regarding how ‘clean’ the take off point is - it would probably be the angle the saddle is sanded to, coming down from the ridge, that matters.

ernandez R
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Re: Which forms of bridges do you prefer?

Post by ernandez R » Fri Apr 12, 2019 5:27 pm

Over at the frets dot com website he has a couple pages dedicated to nut and saddle making/adjusting that helped me get a grip on some issues I've had with my new builds.

The main idea is if your brake angle, nut or saddle, is twenty degrees then your saddle or nut top edge should be one half of that angle, ten degrees. This way the string will make firm contact with both the leading and trailing edge of the bone and prevent the string from vibrating over the contact area.

There is more to it and I recommend reading the Frets website as there is a lot of useful information condensed within.

I do see some round the top of their saddles and wonder about that practice?

HR
I hate sanding wood or anything else for that matter I just happen to be good at it...

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Patona
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Re: Which forms of bridges do you prefer?

Post by Patona » Sat Apr 13, 2019 11:09 am

ernandez R wrote:
Fri Apr 12, 2019 5:27 pm
Over at the frets dot com website he has a couple pages dedicated to nut and saddle making/adjusting that helped me get a grip on some issues I've had with my new builds.

The main idea is if your brake angle, nut or saddle, is twenty degrees then your saddle or nut top edge should be one half of that angle, ten degrees. This way the string will make firm contact with both the leading and trailing edge of the bone and prevent the string from vibrating over the contact area.

There is more to it and I recommend reading the Frets website as there is a lot of useful information condensed within.

I do see some round the top of their saddles and wonder about that practice?

HR

Very interesting site, also on other topics of guitar. I have saved the page on my computer.

I just picked up my guitar from my luthier. Now I have a saddle with phase and smal support point at the front end. The guitar sounds very clean. My luthier says, that with this type of saddle he can create and set the support point much more accurately.
"Don’t try to calm the ocean. Learn to swim between the waves."

Boguslav Teryks Doubletop. spruce-cedar
Hanika 1A/PF, spruce
Ramirez 1a, 1972, cedar

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