FAQs about Classical Guitars - Discussion

Construction and repair of Classical Guitar and related instruments
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James Lister
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Re: FAQs about Classical Guitars - Discussion

Post by James Lister » Thu Mar 23, 2017 7:50 pm

Impossible to answer that really - you could try contacting Martin Blackwell for advice, but really you should just try the Savarez strings and see if you like them.

James
James Lister, luthier, Sheffield UK

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fast eddie
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Re: FAQs about Classical Guitars - Discussion

Post by fast eddie » Tue Dec 26, 2017 5:16 am

James,
Many thanks for this very useful post. I found it extremely informative.
Fast Eddie
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richay
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Re: FAQs about Classical Guitars - Discussion

Post by richay » Wed Dec 26, 2018 2:09 am

Action at the nut is measured by fretting at the third fret, so that the string is stretched between the second fret and the nut. Now check the gap between the string and the first fret. This should be about 0.25mm for the bass E, the A and the G strings, and about 0.1mm (a piece of paper) for the D, B and top E strings.
am i reading this right?
.25mm for e, a, and g
.1 for d, b, e

or does the person mean .25 for e, a, and d
and .1 for g, b, and e?

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James Lister
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Re: FAQs about Classical Guitars - Discussion

Post by James Lister » Wed Dec 26, 2018 6:12 pm

It is correct - the G string needs a little more clearance than the D string.
If you want to be a little more precise, then these are the numbers I use for each string:
Bass E - 0.25mm
A - 0.2mm
D - 0.1mm
G - 0.2mm
B - 0.1mm
Treble E - 0.05mm

James
James Lister, luthier, Sheffield UK

richay
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Re: FAQs about Classical Guitars - Discussion

Post by richay » Wed Dec 26, 2018 6:46 pm

thanks james, that clears up a lot. i have a bunch of books on guitar set up, but once it gets into the classical guitar section. the information just doesnt seem right, especially visioning to my fingers. how would you measure .05mm - with a feeler gauge?
ive been currently using a string guage ruler (like the stew mac kind) for saddle height but the lowest measurement it goes down to is .25 mm
i know sources say enough to stick a paper under it, but thats hard to measure considering the paper fits under all the strings.

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James Lister
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Re: FAQs about Classical Guitars - Discussion

Post by James Lister » Fri Dec 28, 2018 11:10 am

Feeler gauges are best, but you can get close enough to the 0.05mm just by getting the string as close as you can to the first fret (when the string is pressed down between frets 2 & 3) without it actually touching.

James
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richay
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Re: FAQs about Classical Guitars - Discussion

Post by richay » Fri Feb 08, 2019 11:56 pm

got my action all set up nicely, one last question. how do i go about intonation?

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James Lister
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Re: FAQs about Classical Guitars - Discussion

Post by James Lister » Sun Feb 10, 2019 12:01 pm

richay wrote:
Fri Feb 08, 2019 11:56 pm
got my action all set up nicely, one last question. how do i go about intonation?
That depends what the problem is. In general, if the intonation gets worse higher up the fretboard, then the compensation at the saddle needs to be adjusted.

James
James Lister, luthier, Sheffield UK

prettyrubish
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Re: FAQs about Classical Guitars - Discussion

Post by prettyrubish » Tue May 07, 2019 5:54 am

Hi, I wonder if any of the fine Luthiers here could advise me as to the dangers there might be in changing an ALHAMBRA 9P CLASSICAL GUITAR from right-handed play over to left-handed play.

Does this guitar have a stronger bracing bias toward the base strings at or near the bridge?

Does the bridge sit prominently off centre within the lower bout?

Is the saddle 'seat' angled to facilitate compensated strings intonation?

Thank you in advance for any advice on this,

Christopher.

<img src="https://www.guitarfromspain.com/4595-th ... guitar.jpg">

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James Lister
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Re: FAQs about Classical Guitars - Discussion

Post by James Lister » Tue May 07, 2019 8:28 am

Hi Christopher,

Bracing shouldn't be a problem, but yes the saddle will probably be angled slightly to give more compensation on the bass side, so that's one problem. You'll need a new nut as well, and you might also have a problem with action if the fingerboard has a twist built in to it to give more clearance for the bass strings (see this post: viewtopic.php?f=11&t=21728&p=202920&hil ... es#p202920

James
James Lister, luthier, Sheffield UK

prettyrubish
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Re: FAQs about Classical Guitars - Discussion

Post by prettyrubish » Tue May 07, 2019 11:15 am

Hi James,

Thank you for that advice, you mention the 'cant' on the base side, that explains a lot to me, its why I am having a dickens of a job with fret buss on my converted R to L hand Francisco Domingo FG-27.

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