Luke Bartlett wrote: ↑
Fri May 05, 2017 8:11 am
Thanks for the help guys, how would I go about adjusting the nut/saddle? Is it something I can do myself or a job for a professional luthier/repairer? I am actually using EJ45C strings and will have a look at my fretting.
joachim33 wrote: ↑
Fri May 05, 2017 10:04 am
[quote="James Lister" post_id=<a href="tel:1197867">1197867</a> time=<a href="tel:1493973912">1493973912</a> user_id=12098]
If you have a smartphone or tablet, get a free app as Marshall suggested (I use gStrings).
To check the intonation, compare the frequency (pitch) of the 12th fret harmonic on the g string with the fretted note at the 12th fret on the same string. If the fretted note is sharper than the harmonic, then the string needs more compensation (i.e. longer string length). D'Addario string are usually very reliable in terms of intonation, but I do normally recommend trying changing the strings before doing any work on the saddle.
James and others:
I frequently read about members complaining on intonation of strings, but I am quite new to this. What I start to sense is: I should compare (might be a vocabulary issue) the flageolette version to the fretted version the octave on the same string. They need to agree within reason. How much of a deviation you think is tolerable? Event when tuning the string I struggle to get the basses better than 2 cent, due to the winding.
Remark: "Flageolette" might be the German/Swedish/Norwegian name for what you call "harmonic". I had most of my tuition in German and am currently using a Norwegian language book.
Luke - I agree with James about not considering nut compensation, at least at this point.
My procedure is to 1) set the string height at the nut 2) set the action at 12th fret by adjusting the saddle and 3) only then figuring the intonation of the saddle.
As souldier mentioned, the type of string might make a difference too.
Joachim - not sure what you mean about the windings, but they stretch out also. Two or 3 windings around the tuner capstan for the bass strings and 3 to 4 for the trebles are what I like.
Generally a 2 cent deviation may be acceptable, but for octaves, no. Especially between the open string and 12th fret. Get those right on.
I find the electronic tuners very sensitive and they pick up many of the partials, creating a bit of confusion in their reading. It seems that I get a clearer reading by plucking the note being tested at it's middle point between fret and saddle, and doing so rather more gently so as not to excite the secondary (and tertiary, etc.) vibrations too much.
I don't use the harmonic to test the set up, but the open string and the 12th fret. And as I mentioned above, insert a foam earplug to silence the sympathetic vibrations of the other strings. Pushing the string down in a perfect vertical direction is touchy, and you can see how a difficult chord might displace the strings enough to make a difference in the intonation. I'll try it several times until I get a consistant result and it won't go any flatter. I don't accept any error in sharpness at the 12th fret. They will only be accentuated by the action of fretting.
Check out Frank Ford's web site frets.com. He has posted alot of how-to information regarding string installation, set up action, intonation and doing the math involved for figuring correction.
There is a certain amount of deviation that you will have to live with; 1 or 2 cents is generally tolerable, but 3 cents is getting into the audible range. And look at the fretboard as a whole. This can tell you of a misplaced fret, say if every string plays sharp at a certain position.